10.20.08
So here I am on the flight to High Point for what I think is my
16th market. The fall one as usual falls on my wedding anniversary.
My wife came down the first time I was there over our anniversary.
That was also the last time she came down. “That’s alright, we’ll just
celebrate when you get home” is the standard line since then. It’s
just that much fun at the High Point show.
The last flight I
was on was coming back from my first two shoots for the series I am
doing on the Travel Channel. One episode in Nepal and the other in the
rain forest of India – Kerala. They were great trips. On the one
hand, these are the only two episodes we are shooting in places I have
been to before, so it was certainly familiar territory at the start,
but the shooting takes us way off the beaten path from my usual
haunts. Kathmandu I have been to around six times in the last decade,
and Kerala at least once if not twice a year for the last nine years.
But if someone were to ask me if I had been to the famous temple three
blocks away from the bazaar in Fort Cochin, or to the monastery just
outside Kathmandu, my answer would be “They have temples/monasteries
there?”
(Wow, I’m just flying over what appears to be
Chicago. It’s 8pm and already pitch dark outside, so the grid like
orange sprawl of the downtown with the radiating lines that cut across
the grid extending from the downtown and then the remaining variety of
lights the further you get out, all stopping abruptly in an inky black
crescent line at Lake Michigan is quite a sight – obviously I’ve seen
huge cities at night before form a plane, including Chicago, but it's
quite a remarkable thing this mass of humanity sitting quietly below).
While
I won’t spoil the episodes so you have to watch them (shamelessly going
after the extra rating I’ll get from the 12-14 of you that read this
blog and might potentially watch the show), I’ll try to sum things up
in a running list of words and thoughts (‘thoughts’ is being generous
to myself). 72 hours getting to Kathmandu, cancelled flight, torn
pants getting into a cab, walking with said torn pants through throng
of a few hundred people, changing in back room of Delhi airport, 12
hour delayed/cancelled flight takes off at 1am instead of 1pm, little
cockroach scrambles out of my dinner tray as the flight attendant hands
the tray over to me, approaching the airport in Kathmandu only to have
the landing aborted 100 feet off the runway, plane’s engines whining as
it goes into a 45 degree angle in a seemingly vain attempt to suddenly
gain altitude before running into the Himalayas that I know are quite
quickly ahead, steep banking plane, local Nepalis on board looking at
each other, not good if they are wondering what’s going on, second
attempt much more successful - in that we actually landed, arrive at
hotel 4am after 72 hours of travel, up at 7am for breakfast for 8am
call time to start shooting, Buddhist monastery overlooking Kathmandu,
50 monks chanting, playing horns, drums, conch shells, scull bowls
lined in silver for offereings, thigh bone trumpets, horns as long as
the Swiss Ricola ones, hanging out with monks as sun sets looking out
at Kathmandu discussing some of their mystical artifacts, Bouda stupa –
holiest Tibetan Buddhist shrine outside of Tibet, meet up with old
friends there, Tibetan doors, chests, columns, chest, panels, Shaman
village up in the mountains, six chanting Shaman in a tiny one hut
village, locals appearing out of the hillside to see what all the
ruckus was about, playing poker with the locals in the ancient capital
Bakhtapur, cancelled flight out of Kathmandu (presumedly to balance the
cancelled one coming in to Kathmandu), new flight down to Kerala, get
to my great little boutique hotel in the magical spice islands of Fort
Cochin, down to backwaters – like the bayou areas in Louisiana, copper
sunsets boating around, bats, water snakes, 1000 of ducks being herded
around by guys standing up in dugout canoes around 14” wide with no
rudder, thousands of ducks crapping in the water, Ian trying to heard
ducks standing up in impossibly skinny rudderless canoes, Ian falling
into the water where 1000s of duck spend their day crapping, in the
middle of the backwaters trying to get duck crap out of his shorts and
other more personal places, another magical copper sunset, 110 degree
tin roof open air workshop that makes bronze cooking bowls in a little
village somewhere in the jungle, carrying molten bronze to pour these
traditional bowls – urulies – that I have been buying for almost a
decade now, an unbelievable process that has given me new found respect
for something I already really liked, elephant festival with crowds of
people drumming, horns blowing, cymbals cymballing in an impressive
cacophony, elephants dressed up in these elaborate headdresses, hobbled
by chains wrapped around their hind legs, finding out that they are all
form their various temples, chained up pretty much all day long except
for a walk in the morning and evening, I'm having a really hard time
with that – such amazing animals, so soulful and such a revered animal
in India only to be treated like that, back to Fort Cochin, carrying
150lb bags of spices around on my head, hanging out with my long time
friend Sunny, soaking in the atmosphere of this port that held the
world’s attention for over a millennia, eating well, and then heading
back home to the financial melt down going on seemingly around the
world – news surreally reaching us throughout the trip through my yahoo
page and the BBC and CNN, home for a week to see my wife and son, then
off again, which leads us back to the flight I am on now.
I
don’t know what to make of this High Point. The economy has people
sucking everything they can in and keeping their heads down, but I
wonder if the sort of things that I sell will be an exception. One of
a kind pieces that hopefully have some meaning – maybe it’s that sort
of stuff that people are willing to spend money on. Maybe it falls
into a category of something that will stand the test of time, rather
than feeling like frivolous spending in hard times. I really don’t
know. What I do know is I’m really happy with the stuff I am bringing
down. It’s the first time I will be able to show the full array of our
custom made modern organic reclaimed furniture (still haven’t come up
with a shorter name or an acronym for this stuff), and I think I
brought some great examples. I was also able to get in some pretty
spectacular tribal pieces from Nagaland as well as having a pretty good
inventory of the things we get from Kerala (I had just gotten in a
container from there just before we left to go shoot there). Who
knows, all I can do is show up with the best stuff that I can show, and
hope that my clients are able to do some business. It’s hard times,
people are nervous, so I certainly get it. I’m one of them. I have a
very small business and it's always been a hand to mouth sort of thing,
especially now. So I guess this show falls into that category of
trying not to worry about things not in your control and having the
confidence that you have done the best with the things that are in your
control. I’m not one to try and play mental Pollyanna games on myself
– much preferring the realistic approach. I just don’t know what to
expect with the show. Ultimately I am bringing my best hand to the
table, so if people are there to buy, I have the stuff to sell. We
shall see.
Anyway, we are about to land in Charlotte NC, that
same copper moon from India just appeared through the clouds over North
Carolina out the window of the plane, landing, and then the rental car
and hour drive to the rented house in High Point, get there around 12
midnight, off to bed and up and off tomorrow to set up the booth for
the show. It’s a long way from scrubbing duck crap out of your
privates in the middle of some rain forest backwater of Southern India.